Rotting Sill Plate
I have just discovered that the sill plate on the rear of my home is rotted. The back deck was attached to the sill plate. I noticed that it was sagging and upon further inspection, found that I could scoop out large amounts of the sill plate with my bare hand.
On the internet, I found information claiming that this can be repaired with some sort of epoxy that will soak into the wood, harden, and then be structurally sound. This sounds a bit fishy to me, but as the alternative is to jack up the house, I thought I would ask for some advice.
Also, can anyone give me some feedback on the possible expense of this repair. It looks like a big one to me.[ Edited by curtbixel on Date 06/13/2004 ]
Also, what type of contractors should I contact to replace the sill plate?
Jacking up the house is not that big a deal. Any reasonably competent carpenter can do it.
I've seen ads for that epoxy stuff but never used it. If you try it and it works let me know please.
I've used the wood hardener in nonstructural applications (window sashes, brick molding), and it's terrific.
I suppose that it could work for sill plate repairs.
I would work small, manageable sections not to exceed three feet.
Support the section by building a temporary stud wall from the floor, to the joists, making sure you have room to work.
Scoop out the decay until you've reached solid wood. You may want to allow this to dry before attempting the repairs. Depending upon the amount of decay, you may be able to slip in a replacement sillplate. Generously brush the wood hardener on all newly exposed surfaces...prepping the area for replacement sillplate...
Can you use an epoxy as a wood filler? I suppose, but it depends upon the area to be repaired.
Hope this helps.
I appreciate the feedback. It does not appear that the house has settled much at this point. I would estimate that it may have settled only an eighth of an inch where I can see the sill plate. I am thinking that it may actually be easier to replace the sill plate if I can raise the joists only a quarter of an inch.
Can anyone tell me what difficulties I can expect to encounter. If the problem looks too large, I can still farm it out.
Another consideration is that tenants currently occupy the other half of the house, and I imagine that this could be a fairly disruptive procedure. These tenants have a track record of having overly high expectations about having no disruptions to their living space.
Any suggestions?
I have lined up 3 estimates for this work. Does anyone have any suggestions going in? Anyone? Anyone?
Only this I can suggest, being a high expectation person, is let them know as far advance as possible, thatnk for their cooperation, and throw $$ at it if needed.
I love rotted sill plates! Especially when they are on properties held by REO's. I charge thousands and am usually done in a day with a three man crew and materials under $300.
don't bother jacking anything up unless you have to. frequently if there is enough room in the crawlspace you can remov the outside siding that may be in the way (or deck with a sawzall) and beat in new pressure treated sill plate from underneath the house in short sections of 2-6-8' depending on how easy it goes in. IF you do need to lift becuase it is absolutely too tight then get under the house with a bottle jack (or two) and a 4x4 and lift up the joists enough to beat in the new one. YOu could of cours get a beam and a buddy and jack up 3 or 4 at a time but this is usually not real necessary. Use vulcam sealant afterwards as needed (though I usually dont have cracks as the sections are real tight. A cheap fix (use a sledge hammer
[addsig]
Dear Stockpro,
Thank you for your reply. This sounds better than the thousands and thousands of dollars I have been worrying about.
What is the shortest section of 2 x 6 that you can ram in? Can you do individual 18 inch sections centered at each joist and then lock them together with a smaller section of 2 x 6 at each seam?
Also, if it is too tight, have you ever had sections of treated 2 x 6 planed down an eighth of an inch so that they fit better?
Finally, the origional problem was that the deck was attached directly to the house and water trickled back behind and into the sill plate. Would you design a new support system for the deck that keeps it separate from the house, or just attach it back one because the new sill plate is now rot proof?
curtbixel
I would recommend you reattach the deck after you are done. By redesigning a separate support section for the deck, you don't eliminate the water from continuing to get back at the house (unless you lower the deck below this area. So it would be a lot of needless work, IMO.
When you remove the old sill plates, it may be necessary to get in there with a sawzaw to cut off any nails that were attaching the joists. And you may encounter bolts that attached the sill plate to the foundation as well which would need to be cut off. Other than that, you can use the varying sections of new 2x6 in whatever lenghts you choose. Although the longer the better. And yes, you could take them to a millwork company or anyone you might know that has the necessary equipment to plane them down to fit your height requirements.
Dave
I might have an problem shaving 1/8" off of Pressure treated, most of the treatment is on the outside regardless of what they tell you at the lumber yard. As long as this side is up for your wood on wood contact it shouldn't be a problem. A simple delta planer would do the job nicely (just wash your hands and don't breathe)A sawzall is a good idea for nails that go down to the plate. I have never had any bold however, most of the houses new enough to have used bolts aren't rotting because they also had Pressure treated wood.
I can usually get them in there without planing, in fact I have never ever planed one. I might jack up a joist or two or frequently use a long crowbar to lift the sill a tiny bit. THis is mostly just sweat and a no brainer. IF you have a question send me a picture at **Please See My Profile** with your question. If you send a picture of the deck I could probably give you the specifics of how best to support it.
YOu will want to flash the sill in any case if possible to keep the moisture off.
Best of Luck!
[addsig]
When you redo your deck put flashing at least 4" past your plate so water will drip clear of your sill as well as your foundation.
Ed