Removing Varnish And Stain From Oak Doors

I have ten 4-panel interior oak doors that are stained in dark walnut and are in good condition. I am considering having them sanded down to natural and stained a lighter color.

I received a quote for a $100 per door to sand to natural. My question is how many hours per door (approx.) would it take for a DIY and any advice on products or techniques to make it easier.

Comments(10)

  • InActive_Account10th February, 2005

    The cheapest solution that still yields nice results is painting the doors yourself, or having them sprayed for more money.

  • NC_Yank2nd February, 2005

    By the time you pay your deductible I doubt it would be covered but you can call.

    I would be surprised that they joist broke soley because of the party....................floor systems are designed to distribute weight over a wide area.

    A 2x8 joist should easily span a distance of about 11 - 12 feet, 2x10 will typically span 14 feet. There are other factors but again these numbers should be close. I suspect there are other factors that contributed to the joist failure and if so then it should be addressed.

    The fix would be a matter of sistering another joist or two next to the one in question.

    Without telling out much damage their is to the joist then it would be difficult to tell you how far to extend the new joist back but typically 4 feet extending each way from the point of brake should do it. I would do this to both sides if possible.

    Nailing pattern should be in rows of three at 6 inches on center. This is something that a handy man or carpenter can do. Just insure that the broken joist is pushed back in place, and level.

    If the occupants did contribute to the damage then they would be paying the bill...............or their butts would be on the street.

    NC_Yank

  • mikejaquish2nd February, 2005

    Have you opened the ceiling and looked at the floor joist to determine the type of break?

    You may find that the joist was compromised by a plumber, electrician, or HVAC tech cutting too big a notch or hole in the joist(s).
    Utility runs may make the repair more difficult($$$), but a good investigation is necessary as it will help in determining the proper fix.
    [addsig]

  • babymamba2nd February, 2005

    Thanks for the detailed and informative responses.
    I will investigate further and repost if necessary!

    -mamba

  • Stockpro995th February, 2005

    while in an ideal world it would be best to carry it full length from end to end this might not be possible in your case. Gluing and nailing is adequate, if you were really paranoid then sistering on both sides would do the trick and be stronger than it was in the first place at point of break. Nails in the 16 penny range have approximately 1600lbs shear and are quite strong enough, I glue because I worry a lot wink
    [addsig]

  • rewardrisk6th February, 2005

    I have seen my share of married (sistered) lumber attached with lag bolts, to old joists. I have seen this in a lot of old houses with bad basement joists due to cracks or termites. Engineers have passed this method of repair.

  • InActive_Account8th February, 2005

    The only thing in consideration is shear forces on the fasteners in the sisters and the broken joist. 16d nails have plenty of shear strength and are more than adequate to sister a joist. There is no issue of side to side movement where bolts would be required, only shear strength pointing downward.

    Jc you said you had an engineer spec out through bolts - would you expect anything else if it was an engineer?

  • NC_Yank8th February, 2005

    JC,

    In regards to the 4 ft. sistering...................you failed to read it
    correctly.

    Its 4 ft extending each way from the point in question and sandwiched.

    In other words...........an 8ft sistering (on each side of the joist in question)..........with noted nailing pattern.

    NC

  • InActive_Account8th February, 2005

    Quote:
    On 2005-02-02 06:56, NC_Yank wrote:

    Without telling out much damage their is to the joist then it would be difficult to tell you how far to extend the new joist back but typically 4 feet extending each way from the point of brake should do it. I would do this to both sides if possible.


    I think he means 8 feet total - 4 feet each way would be 8 feet the way I read it. I think that would be more than enough for most cases.

  • NC_Yank9th February, 2005

    Hey Rehab,

    Your right about the overkill.................on the drywall subject,....................I made the mistake of taking on a job for a friend without looking at the job. He said he just need me to mud and finish it and he would do the rest.

    It was one of those small unfinished bonus rooms.
    He used every scrap available that you just as well cover the wall in plaster considering the amount of mudding & joint taping there would be..............and yes, he too went crazy with the screws. (laugh)


    NC

    PS. Did you get my email about the economy in the Denver area..........ref. my cabinet maker friend?[ Edited by NC_Yank on Date 02/09/2005 ]

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