Squirrels
Renters complaining about squirrels in the walls, apparently having a family reunion for Thanksgiving and making a major racket right by their bed. I can see two holes where they no doubt get in, but if I block off the holes they will die inside the walls and make a serious stink. How do I get rid of them without killing them in the walls?
Chris
Maybe put a trap by the hole?
I remember once my dad had a bird get inside one of the walls in his kitchen. We actually had to cut a hole in the wall and then build a tunnel with blankets and chairs that led to the back door. Once the bird came out it had no choice but to fly outside.
If the squirrels are unable to move freely inside the walls, as I suspect is the case due to the studs, it may make more sense for you to first seal the hole outside and then cut a small hole in the wall through which the squirel(s) can exit. Obviously you then have to deal with patching the wall .
A couple thoughts for you anyway.
If they happen to be flying squirrels, they are nocturnal and leave every night if I recall correctly. I had between 2 - 4 dozen in a house I bought so I picked up a one-way trap online, mounted it over the vent in the attic and then blocked up all the other potential entry points with wire mesh. They left and then never came back. Apparently they will just go try and find a home somewhere else. I had a guy come and look at the house and he said that they can fit in through any hole the size of a quarter. Hopefully this helps.
- will
you can, but you have tons of legal exposure.
e.g.
How do you know the seller is the owner?
obscure lien
etc.
What sources of financing have you tried? I used a small, local bank and went in and talked to the Loan Officer. This bank offered an interest only 6 month loan for flips. We purchased the house for 90K and needed 20K for improvements. We provided a detailed list of the improvements to the bank for their appraiser. The appraisal was based on the after repaired value, which came in at 135K. We got our cash for the improvements and fortunately stayed within our budget.
Everything was much easier than I expected after reading so many horror stories on financing for flips. The banker was familiar with what we wanted to do so that made it easy.
Check with local banks. They seem to be better at offering these deals, especially with the problems some lenders are having. Best of luck!
Thanks for your advice! As you mentioned, it seems things are a little bit easier than I anticipated. My local credit union is willing to extend me a line of credit for the repairs on the house. It was a pretty simple ordeal.
For a short term loan, your primary concern is going to be loan costs- origination fees, brokers fees, points, etc. This will wind up costing you more than your interest for a typical 6 month "flip"loan.
If the costs are all the same, then I would go for the one with the lowest payments (including PMI), assuming they are all 30 year fully amortized (i.e. comparable). Insurance (PMI), like interest, is a cost that you will add to your total expenses before figuring the profit on which you must pay the self employment income tax from the flip.
Chris
[ Edited by ypochris on Date 10/26/2007 ]
have you asked about FHA 203K loans?
They supposedly are just for this purpose.
You also need to consider the time vilocity of money. In other words the faster you turn over the money the more money you will actually make. So you may want to consider working with hard money lenders as they can close quickly and you can get the money you need to fix up the property.[ Edited by wgm007 on Date 11/29/2007 ]
Checkout http://www.hud.gov/offices/hsg/sfh/203k/203kabou.cfm
Usless I missed it I saw no o/o requirement.
Recently Acquired Properties
Homebuyers who purchase a property with cash can refinance the property using 203(k) within six (6) months of purchase, the same as if the buyer purchased the property with a 203(k) insured loan to begin with. Evidence of interim financing is not required; the mortgage calculations will be done the same as a purchase transaction. Cash back will be allowed to the borrower in this situation less any down payment and closing cost requirement for the 203(k) loan. A copy of the Sales Contract and the HUD-1 Settlement Statement must be submitted to verify the accepted bid price (as-is value) of the property and the closing date.
Eligible Property
To be eligible, the property must be a one- to four-family dwelling that has been completed for at least one year. The number of units on the site must be acceptable according to the provisions of local zoning requirements. All newly constructed units must be attached to the existing dwelling. Cooperative units are not eligible.
Homes that have been demolished, or will be razed as part of the rehabilitation work, are eligible provided some of the existing foundation system remains in place.
In addition to typical home rehabilitation projects, this program can be used to convert a one-family dwelling to a two-, three-, or four-family dwelling. An existing multi-unit dwelling could be decreased to a one- to four-family unit.
An existing house (or modular unit) on another site can be moved onto the mortgaged property; however, release of loan proceeds for the existing structure on the non-mortgaged property is not allowed until the new foundation has been properly inspected and the dwelling has been properly placed and secured to the new foundation.
A 203(k) mortgage may be originated on a "mixed use" residential property provided: (1) The property has no greater than 25 percent (for a one story building); 33 percent (for a three story building); and 49 percent (for a two story building) of its floor area used for commercial (storefront) purposes; (2) the commercial use will not affect the health and safety of the occupants of the residential property; and (3) the rehabilitation funds will only be used for the residential functions of the dwelling and areas used to access the residential part of the property.
we had a family Building/GC/Brick mason business in MI, and those trades can be seasonal.
They used to use (this is 26 yrs ago) a "salt" added to the mortar. They could add enough salt to work to about 15F. Below that the amount of sale you needed to add compromised the mortar.
and this was NaCl or table salt, it was as I recall calcium based.
see
http://www.maconline.org/tech/construction/cold1/cold1.html
and a general google search.[ Edited by cjmazur on Date 11/22/2007 ]
We use hot water for stucco and mortaring and then try and drape with plastic if it is not too cold (sub zero). Adding calcium will speed up the drying process as well, 1-2% usually will do the trick.
Concrete can freeze once before hardening on a driveway but if it goes through it twice it will turn to sugar. ALways blanket it for at least a week with insulated blankets when pouring..
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Well put Chris!
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