One On One Short Sale Training
HI there,
looking to see if there any one that will train the short sale secerts, will pay if that possible plz replyt.
THANK YOU RAYBZ5
I came across this piece of info and there are hundreds of more like it that state that Ozone generators are not effective at killing mold.
"The American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygienists do not recommend using ozone on visible mold growth. Due to various factors, ozone has not been found effective against molds. One problem is the elements that cause ozone to be less effective. Ozone can be affected by temperature and pH, decreasing its impact on mold. Organic materials in the structure can also affect ozone.
A second problem is that ozone does not kill what it does not reach. No method of application can ensure that the ozone contacts every surface where mold contamination exists.
The last problem is mycotoxins. Even if ozone did affect mold, the toxins on mold spores and mold fragments still remain on surfaces and can still cause allergenic reactions in people. To remediate a mycotoxin problem, you must reduce the concentrations of mycotoxins in the structure.
In summary, ozone does not work with molds. In addition, molds are usually found in wet environments. Using ozone on wet materials in a wet environment may result in the bleaching of surfaces."
The ONLY way to permanently protect your home from mold spore infiltration is to control the environment by keeping the temperature within 65º-70º Fahrenheit and the relative humidity within 45%-65%.
NC_Yank
NC Yank,
Since mold is my current concern I am just curious about your description about how to keep it at bay. 65-70degrees and 45-65%humidity is exactly what we have here along the coast of San Diego and yet mold seems to be everywhere. I appreciate your knowledge about these matters and look forward to your response.
In order for mold to grow, 3 elements must exist:
a) Food (most building materials)
b) warmth
c) moisture
You get rid of any one of those elements then your problem is solved. We know we can not get rid of the food source, the warmth can be controlled somewhat however the key is to get rid of the moisture.
Moisture / Water problems are the number one cause to a structures deterioration. Foundation, walls and roof problems are often the result of a moisture problem. Yet, many rehabbers want to apply a band aid on a gapping wound........flip the problem to the next owner or investor.
California and North Carolina, while thousands of miles apart, both have humidity problems. Solutions to moisture / humidity levels range from installing a dehumidifier, additional venting including power venting and of course getting rid of water entering into the dwelling.
I have written several articles here at TCI that would be worth reading. I believe in one of those articles I addressed interior french drains. Basically they are nothing more then a cheap way that on the surface seem to address a major water problem for a short period of time, however they do nothing more then raise humidity levels in a crawl space or basement which in turn creates other problems......ie. mold.
Mold can be removed and on a permenant basis, it just may require more time, effort and $$$$$ depending on your location and the extent of damage that is existing.
NC_ Yank
Flipping Homes by Bronchick
Buy It, Fix It, Sell It, Profit by Myers
Not to add too much of my opinion, however rather then read too many books on the subject I would instead find a mentor and learn from them...
if you are going to buy books to read I understand John Locke has a few that would be worth their weight in Gold. http://www.subjecttoinvesting.com/
I would caution you to find the money before you find the property.
Now the definition of money is either your capital, hard/soft money lenders, or an investor you can either work with or sell the contract to.
Better yet.....
read the free articles and spend hours in the forums.
To0 many new investors want to aquire knowledge in a short period of time that has taken us experienced investors YEARS of research, experience, trial and error to accumulate.
Again, browse the forums etc., get an idea on which avenue (there be many) of REI may be interesting to you and take the time to read and ask questions in the forums.
NC_Yank
Stop working with an agent, if youre trying to buy houses listed in the MLS youre out of luck.. Those sellers have been contaminated by Realtors...
Instead start with classified ads, do some mail, knock on some doors.
Thanks. What newspapers do you recommend looking for ads in?
I had no luck so far on knocking on doors! How do you convince the owners to sell?
Lolla
what do you mean when you say the sellers have been contaminated by the realtors? Can you elaborate on that?
thx
Well in a sellers market weak realtors will over value the property in order to justify their commission to the seller.
If they do get a listing which is under priced they have 48 hours to input it into the MLS, within that time they will either buy it themselves or sell it to another client to double end the deal.
If it hits the MLS and is a deal the 1000 or so agents will see it first and snatch it up.
So the only inventory available on the MLS is either at value or above value.
In a Buyers market is when you are able to buy expired MLS listings at a good or reasonably good price..
Thanks for the reply. I was unsure on how that worked. But what if I am doing the repairs myself? Long story short, I found a property that should appraise for $70k ARV. The listed price is $49,900. I plan to offer $35, Which should be accepted based on new info. With 65% LTV I will have $45k to do my project. (Purchase and repairs). My credit is not the best, at the time, but I have come across lenders that look at the property rather that credit only. This would be my first rehab. Does this sound like a good deal?
Bump
"John Bridge is a wealth of information about tiling, do a search for his name on the Internet and you probably will find the key to unlock all the knowledge you need."
Great source fo information. Glad to have it. Thanx, Rehab.
http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/index.php
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Ill second the John Brige recommendation. Great people over on that forum.
Look for a kerdi shower kit, will make the shower tiling 1 million times easier, no need to make a mortar bed. They are made by a company called schulter. If you go over to the John Bridge forum u will read all about them.
i learned tiling by watching a tiler before.& at home depot but still not perfect
I put cultured marble shower pans in showers with tile walls all the time in very upscale houses. Nobody really looks at the floor of a shower if the walls are beautiful.
Cult marble pans are completely waterproof and easy to do. Tile walls are not that difficult either. Hang out at good tile/flooring supply places and ask questions.
Try the Latin connection
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