Finding Rehab In NJ
Ok this question is for the pros, hopefully they dont mind sharing a secret or two.
I was just wondering how do you Pressionals find a good rehabber in NJ?
Right now market is so hot, and everybody knows it. Especially the homeowner that thinks there beat up house is worth 500000$.
HELP PLEASE
Join the local GSREIA (Garden state real estate investor association) and you will have access to a number of rehabbers. Do a google search on GSREIA and follow the link.
Just my opinion, but if you are selling it, just have it painted.
Paint! It will look just as good as new vinyl if you get the right paint for the job!
Good Luck!
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When you do paint aluminum siding, do you have to prepare it any differently? I was told to pressure wash it with vinegar? Any truth to that rumor???
Thanks!
GA_John
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Signature lines are not for solicitation. Moderator.[ Edited by NC_Yank on Date 06/17/2005 ]
Thats what they call "box" siding with all the visible seams. They call it box siding; because it comes precut in boxes. For a tad more money you can have seamless siding installed which looks awesome.
If the siding is in good shape and your selling I would just pain it, and as others said invest the money into other stuff.
Costs vary widely, building to building, and region to region.
If you search this website, you will find references to guides that will give you figures, but I take them with a grain of salt.
If you are not in a market with rapidly appreciating values, you MUST be proficient at estimating, as you will live and die with the numbers you project, without the safety net of appreciation.
Different folks here have different skills, strengths and weaknesses. Some do the complete rehabs; some do partial rehabs; some do no labor and hire everything done.
No system is wrong, if it is profitable and satisfying.
If you are going to use a GC, and your post says that you will, you should figure on paying that GC for his/her expertise in getting you working figures.
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Good idea about shopping around. And yes, I DO need to join and become part of a REI club. Thanks for your replies. Anyone else with comments?
IF your a newby and have no experience in this field the best thing to do is to get several bids for the project from contractors.
I am a contractor with extensive experience having run a mid sized construction company for many years. That said my last remodel went over budget 10,000
This is common practice among those that take short cuts.
It shouldhave been achored to the wall. The back of the bowl has a place to do just that.
NC
Thanks Yank!
To add to that question:
What is the best way to drill through wall tile to prevent cracking the tile? Use a masonry or tile bit? What setting on the drill? Pressure on the drill? I think I am going to attempt to drill the holes myself. Any advice?
[ Edited by d_random on Date 06/17/2005 ]
You have to be careful when drilling through glazed tile,
use a carbide tipped masonry bit. One secret to keep the bit from slipping is to use masking tape. Just make an X pattern with the tape, allow the drill to do the work......do not force it.....when you are about to go through, ease off the drill so as not to damage the tile.
Variable speed drills are nice for something like this.......do not use a hammer drill.
NC
AWESOME!!!!
Thanks again for your help NC Yank!
The easiest way to drill through tile is indeed with a masonry drill bit and a hammer drill. But I start off by using a punch or nail-set to start the hole, thus exposing the soft, inner layer of the tile. If you eliminate this step, the drill bit will have a hard time biting into the glazing.
The reason that I advise NOT to use a hammer drill is because many of the glazed and pocelain tiles are soft and or fragile, they can easily crack.
Hammer drills are used for extra power / pressure...........you do not need or want to force your way through the tile.
There are a variety of cheap masonry bits on the market, using a good quality carbide tip is what you want.
Not long ago I had to drill through 4 inches of brick and 8 inches of block. I gave one of my workers some money to pick up 3 specific bits by Bosch.......he came back with 10 Vermont masonry bits and some change. While his intentions were good in trying to save me some money, I told him those bits were worthless. We had 30 holes to drill, all ten vermonts were shot by the 3 hole.
There are times when you can go cheap, but when it matters that the job is done efficiently ~ use quality material and tools.
NC_Yank
or:
/contractorservices
Most vinyl re-siding jobs are done by installing new vinyl over existing siding.
Plusses:
-No mess of tearing off existing siding.
-Quicker project, with Labor $$avings from not spending time tearing off siding.
-Some crews only do nail overs, and will not tear off the old.
-Existing siding helps function as a sound deadener, reducing noise transmission into house from exterior.
Minuses:
-Often rotten wood is covered and does not provide sound nail base for new siding.
-Often it looks like crap, as two layers of siding bring the new siding trim out past the brick mould on standard wood windows. IMO, brick ould should have some "relief" and protrude out past siding trim.
-Often it looks like crap, as wavy walls are "fixed" by floating the siding out away, so it is just hanging off the nails. Poor work like this is part of what gives vinyl a bad name.
-Often crews will cut corners in flashing windows or doors, just using siding to cover up. But this can happen in any installation. With two layers of siding, there is just more material to sop water and harbor rot and mold.
My preference, in attempting to attain a durable and attractive result is to remove old siding, but that is somewhat uncommon anymore.
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