Patching Hairline To 1/4" Cracks In Stucco
Any suggestions on how to do this?
Is it better to "rake" the crack open, that more patch can get in?
The 2 thoughts I have had, is stucco patch which is hard to control application of in small areas, and oil based caulk mix w/ fine sand which would stay stretchy.
They elastomeric paint ofver the top.
It's the original color coat from 1973 that's cracking.
At www.portcement.org they have a stucco manual for $25 and they'll offer phone or email support.
. Some actually "distress" the stucco (you could leave the cracks) and create a new look.
Most patches will look like a patch, but if you have a good eye and touch, you can patch it successfully. It is very helpful if you can determine what type mix of stucco is there originally and work with the same material.
I cannot tell if you meant it already has the elastomeric paint over the top, or if you intend to do it after (then). There are some excellent elastomeric acrylic finishes that serve as top coats for stucco (stuccoflex) that are great and better imho than the paint. A lot depends on the condition overall condition of what you have now, how much money you want to spend, the look you want, etc.
I do know folks who love that "old world" look and love the cracks
Good luck,
Terry
Thanks..
I plan to:
powerwash
patch
and use a good elastomeric. I have used kelly-moore product..
Since you mention Kelly-Moore, I used to work for them for about 12 years. They have a latex elastomeric caulking under their own label that contains a fine aggregate for texture (I think it was called Kel-Seal under product #1112 or #1114 if memory serves). You can top coat with #1129 textured terpolymer tinted (have them use only 40% of the normal pigment...50% is too strong IMO). The terpolymer will bridge hairline cracks all on it's own, so they won't need any treatment.
The big caveat is to make sure that there is adequate exterior ventilation. You will be waterproofing the stucco and trapping all moisture inside the walls. Nasty problems await if there's no where else for that moisture to go. You might consider putting in some more vents.
[ Edited by wannabe21 on Date 06/14/2004 ]
Patching stucco so that you don't see the repaired area is.
It is virtually impossible to do as A stucco mason can create an infinite amount of textures depending upon the materials used to create the stucco and the tools used to finish it. Blending the new texture with the original is a true art and craft.
I urge you to build several small test boards that are slightly smaller than the size of the existing hole. Practice your technique on these. Once you think you have the texture matched, insert the test panel in the hole and step to view it.
Things tend to look different when viewed from a distance. If your existing stucco is painted, paint the test panel as well.
I use acrylic latex paint to cover hairline and small cracks or fill them with latex caulking compound and then paint with acrylic latex paint.
To patch small holes (less than 6 inches wide), you don't need to layer stucco as if you were applying new stucco to the house. You can simply pack the hole with stucco patching compound. I use Pre-Mixed Stucco Patch by custom building products.
With a larger hole the repair process begins by simply looking at how your existing stucco was installed. Stucco is applied differently in many parts of the nation. In some localities, tar paper is applied over the wall studs and then wire mesh is nailed to the studs. In other areas, wood sheathing is nailed to the studs before the tar paper and mesh is applied. Look at the exposed edge of the hole to see how your stucco was applied.
Remove any loose stucco with a cold chisel and blow away dust or dirt. You may need to staple in a patch of wire mesh if the existing mesh is damaged and wet the place you'll be patching with a fine spray of water and partially fill the hole with the stucco patching compound. Don't fill the hole completely--you will need to apply two more layers after the first one has cured. Allow it to cure for a couple of days, then apply the next layer. Repeat for the final layer. Keep the surface damp for 4 days.
To make the repaired area waterproof, you need to remove some of the existing stucco to expose the tar paper beneath the stucco. Remove the stucco slowly and carefully so as not to tear the tar paper. The new tar paper needs to slide up behind the tar paper at the top of the opening. One inch of overlap will work, but two inches would be better. The tar paper overlaps the sides and bottom of the existing opening the same distance. This important detail prevents water that may seep behind the stucco from rotting the wood sheathing and structural wood framing.
thanks you all.
I had a property manager walk thru to give a too-do list and target rent.
The "minor" stucco cracking was almost as low as my desire to change trim colors.
She said "That really boths you doesn't it?"
It make me crazy. But she said changing it wouldn't make a change to rents or resale value.
Thanks all over you..