New Handyman Member
Hello everyone. I am new to the site. I thought i would join so i could learn more about investing. I own a painting buisness and have been a handyman all my life.
(remainder of message has been edited due to violation of advertising rules)
NC Yank[ Edited by NC_Yank on Date 01/06/2004 ]
Hi and welcome, you could help me with something.
I want to reduce the amount of time and aggrivation painting the inside of my next project.
I want to use latex paint, with a HVLP gun. What would you recommend for compressor size, I want the smallest that will do the job so that it is easier to transport and store. Oilless for reduced maintenance.
Also in the past I have painted the ceiling and walls the same color. Now I am interested in painting the ceilings white and the walls a beige and finally replacing the molding with white. What is your advice on using a spray gun when painting a ceiling white and walls another color? Is this suicidal in regard to the amount of time and agrivation that will go into this to make it happen or are there some tricks of the trade to make it work?
Welcome to the site, its a shame that you are in MN and I am in VA. I could always use a good painter
First off a hvlp is used for hobby painting like cars and smaller objects. For the interior of a house you use a airless sprayer. It puts out a pattern about 12 inches and a flawless finish if you know how to use one. As far as spraying a ceiling a differnt color, is actually pretty easy. The shortest way i have found is to do the lightest color first . The reason for this is that its eaiser to cover a light color than a dark color. So lets say that the ceilings are the lighter color. Spray the ceiling first. Allow time to dry and then mask off the ceilings from the edges out about 3 to 4 ' with a 3m masking machine with 48" plastic. Then spray walls. The other option is to spray walls first and then ceilings and come back and cut in the over spray on the wall. The reason you dont do the ceiling first is you dont want to be cutting in on texture.
Good advice jstrom. Thanks. Stick around and sooner than later you'll be rewarded (probably sooner) with good advice on another subject. Thanks again for the post.
Welcome jstrompainting
I definately can use a good painter.
Make sure you review the guidelines so you can continue to communicate with us.
I will and id like to apoligize to nc yank. I was just meaning to tell people that i could help out never meaning to advertise.
Quote:
On 2004-01-06 22:04, jstrompainting wrote:
I will and id like to apoligize to nc yank. I was just meaning to tell people that i could help out never meaning to advertise.
No apoligy needed. That is why I left your post up and did not delete it.
Just familiarize your self with the rules and we can all benefit from your knowledge and experience.
You can put your credentials in your personal profile. Members can contact you privately for help they may need that does not involve the forums.
If you have any questions in regards to the website then contact any of the moderators or Joel.......
Again welcome aboard.
NC
jstrompainting - is there any way to get around all that masking in your opinion? Would it make sense to spray the walls, let them dry then cut in the ceiling with a brush and then just spray the rest of the ceiling or would there be too much over spray?
What do you think about buying paint? Keep buying it in 5 gallon buckets at home depot or is it cheaper to set up a wholesale account at a painter supply house?
jstrompainting,
Welcome to the site, a great group of people here.
along with buying latex paint, I read that you can buy 5gal buckets of returned paint (custom dyed) that is not quite right. They said to buy this as close to the color you want and keep mixing all the buckets together as you use them to get a uniform color. How long will this paint keep?
You would have to much overspray. Also you always want to cut in on the smoothest surface. Theres nothing worse than trying to paint on texture. For your guestions about buying paint, I would get a commercial account at either sherwin williams or hirshfield. The prices will be the same as anywhere else and the quality of paint is 10 times better. For the question about mixing paint. If i understand right you have two colors you are going to mix together. If thats the case you can do it as long as you will have enough to finish the job. Cause if you run out you will never get a match. Also make sure that the paints have the same finish.
How long will the paint keep.? I never hold on to paints more than 6 month. Best tip i can give you is to keep the paint indoors where its warm and there is alot of tempature changes. Also find a color you like and use that for all you investments so if your paint does get old and discolored you know what to get for touch ups. I hope that awnsers all the questions. Keep them coming
I buy the paint, but I don't do the painting.
I always check with Consumers Report for their recommendations and ratings.
I have had good luck matching existing paint colors at both Home Depot and Lowes. Not perfect, but good enough.
In most cases, I do not think it is worth the time or money to use white for the ceiling and another tone for the walls-especially when using an air compressor. It sort of defeats the purpose.
You asked for em -- we've got em! (questions)
Here's mine... I have a tub/shower that's recessed into the wall. The ceiling above it is several inches lower than the ceiling in the room, so I used MR drywall and metal corner bead on the three corners (top and 2 sides). It has a good exhaust fan, but the moisture is still getting to that corner bead, especially on the top, and I'm getting some rust stains leaking through the white paint after just a month or so. I knew the potential for this existed so I used 2 coats of a primer (after the drywall mud) that was supposed to be a good sealant, then 2 coats of finish paint (satin finish) but it didn't do the job for me.
Maybe I shouldn't have used the metal bead (use straight-flex instead), but I'm still concerned because moisture is obviously getting through the paint.
Any suggestions? A particular brand of primer (or finish coat) that you like for moisture resistance?
Thanks!
The lowest finish you want to use in a room with moisture is eggshell paint or higher. Flat and satin paints cant resist moisture.
oops missed a ? For corner bead i always use metal it stays in place. And look at it this way if you use pper corners and moisture gets to it the paper will pull away from the wall and then u have more problems to deal with. Blocking out rust stains is eaiser than remudding.
Walmart color place paint is Sherwin Williams, about $10/gallon, even cheaper by the 5 gallon and they do a great job at matching colors. I use the satin wall and trim religiously, have covered burgundy with a light color in one coat with minor touch up. I like the velor paint pads for non-sprayable areas, fast and clean. I love painting--when it's finished...
Hi gang,
One thing I have noticed about the cheaper paints... It takes twice as many coats to cover as opposed to good "paint store" paint. We bought some paint at home depot, and compared it to dunn & edwards. D&E won hands down on quality and finish. (btw, we painted the whole house with a roller... yuk!!!)
Best,
Ryno
jstrompainting, Great advice all through the thread! As an old painter thought i'd throw in a few tips.
Better quality paint always covers better on a properly preped surface. It basically has to do with the % of solids (read the label). Solids is the pigment that provides color and coverage. Higher the solids better the coverage. look the next time you shop for paint.
Try your local paint store and ask for miss-tints and returns. I have bought 35-50 gal of high quality $30 gal paint for as little as $1 gal in 5 gal pails in a nice off-white or light grey. Save it till you need it. Store it where it won't freeze and the temp stays fairly constant. Radical temp changes tend to make it settle out, make sure it's mixed well. Try to buy the same brand. If you mix lots of different pastel tints it always ends up light grey.
Someone mentioned using Airless spray. It works well outside, just watch the wind & overspray . You don't want to paint all the cars in the hood. Interior airless is OK if it's a rehab and there's no carpet or flooring. If its an occupied repaint, try a power feed roller set-up. It's almost as fast as spraying & more paint ends up on the wall. If you're using a regular roller, don't even think about using a roller pan. Do like the pros and use a screen that fits in a 5gal bucket.
Most people try to cover too much area with a roller. If it's splattering all over your face and glasses, you're running the roller too dry. A full roller on a smooth wall will cover about 3 rollers wide & about 3 ft tall. I know that seems like alot. Try it and you'll be amazed at the difference in coverage and appearance.
Always wear white coverall and you'll look the part.
Cheers!
Marty
[ Edited by plumzany on Date 01/08/2004 ]
As far as over spray goes, is there a type of airless sprayer that is known for the least amount of overspray?
Not really. Make sure that you use the right size tip for the paint you are using. The tip size recommendation should be listed on the canof paint. the tip size reads something like 517 or 311. the first number is the half the width of the spray pattern: ie, 3 would be a 6" pattern 4 would be a 8" inch pattern, and so on. Of course the size of the spray pattern relies on how far you hold the gun from the work surface.
, 15 = .015", 17 = .017, etc. The recommendation usually has a range of tip sizes. Lets use a mediulm bodied exterior coating like Sherwin-Williams A100. The sizes recommended are .015-.019. If you are doing alot of close in work, use a smaller tip like a 215 or 217, narrow pattern, not a lot of paint. use a 519 if you are doing, say, a big flat area like the side of a warehouse. a 317 or 415 is a good all around size. the tips can run $25-35 dollars each.
The next 2 numbers represent the size of the orifice opening, 11 = 11 thousands (.011"
Adjust the pressure so the coating is just coming out in an even pattern. If its surging (pattern getting narrow then wide with each stroke of the pump) it's not enough. Too high a pressure blows overspray everywhere. Over-lap ech pass by about 1/2 the width of the pattern and RElEASE the trigger at the end of each stroke. It's very hard to switch directions without getting runs from too much paint. It takes some parctice to get a nice even film without runs.
A word of caution. Read the warning card that comes with a new gun. If you inject yourself with fluid. IT IS A VERY SERIOUS INJURY!! The paint can enter your blood stream and you WILL lose a finger. Don't fool around with the gun. I've had guys try to wash their hands with the gun after running cleaning water through the pump. DON"T DO IT.
I get a little long winded, But painting is one of the best and most dramtic improvments you can make for the money.
When in doubt, throw paint on it!
Marty
Marty, great info! This is going into my painting with a sprayer 101 file!
As far as the guy that said he uses wal-mart paint. I rehabed a house for a customer who had previously painted with wall mart paint and the effects where horrible. I n my option it is the most watered down paint in the world and it does last on the walls for more than six month. If you have good succes with it than go for it. Also everyone is talking about rolling. If you go to home depot and look at the wagner power rollers. They are about 45 dollars. They are the fastest roller around. But as far as wagner dont use any other products they make. But try those rollers once and youll be hooked
Quote:
...Here's mine... I have a tub/shower that's recessed into the wall. The ceiling above it is several inches lower than the ceiling in the room, ...
Tile it, large tiles, tiny grout lines. Tile the wall above the tub/shower unit too.
Terry
> Tile it, large tiles, tiny grout lines. Tile the wall above the tub/shower unit too.
and I'm not sure I want to tile those. I might be facing the same moisture problems with them, plus I'm worried about the screws and nails used in the rest of the bathroom for attaching the drywall. Rust on the corner bead is just a precursor to what might come with those.
Actually, that's my plan for this bathroom. But I still asked the question because I'll be adding 2 more bathrooms (don't ask why.. long story involving a teenage daughter, etc <IMG SRC="images/forum/smilies/icon_rolleyes.gif">
Thanks for the advice, though. <IMG SRC="images/forum/smilies/icon_smile.gif">
_________________
The floggings shall continue until morale improves.[ Edited by thuntermi on Date 01/08/2004 ]
thuntermi - really think about your situation. Putting tile on the ceiling isn't going to fix anything other than cover up rust. A couple of problems with this is 1st, the moisture problem isn't being corrected. 2nd you are going to run the risk of tiles falling on your head if moisture is penetrating that far already.
I would look into a couple of things. 1st install a better fan that is moving more air out of the room, 2nd install a timer on it so that it runs for maybe 1/2 hour after someone is done in the shower, 3rd repaint the ceiling with some Kilz primer and repaint. If you just can't get the moisture out, there are going to be other problems in this bathroom with more time.
I have a sail boat and have discovered many things used in sail boat repair work really well in home repair. If you go to a boat store you can get some hull paint to paint the shower ceiling area that will waterproof it.
Hey Rehabinator, thanks for the kind words. A sail boat?! I have a 30 footer that i"m rehabinating. OOPS I guess that's for another forum.
Anyway you were right on with the bathroom advise, sounds like maybe you've had to dodge a few yourself. Marty[ Edited by plumzany on Date 01/08/2004 ]
Quote:
On 2004-01-08 20:07, The-Rehabinator wrote:
thuntermi - really think about your situation. Putting tile on the ceiling isn't going to fix anything other than cover up rust. A couple of problems with this is 1st, the moisture problem isn't being corrected. 2nd you are going to run the risk of tiles falling on your head if moisture is penetrating that far already.
Thanks for your good advice. I guess I should have been more specific. I'm going to either put cement board over top of the drywall or replace the drywall with cement board. Depends on how thin of cement board I can find. 1/2" is too thick for going over the drywall. I'll probably do the replace thing. THEN I'll be putting up the tile.
Large tiles with tiny grout lines...
On a side note, I'm excited because I just got word a few hours ago that my offer was accepted for my first rehab house. An REO that I should be able to make a decent profit on for my first deal.
[addsig]
Quote:
On 2004-01-08 20:07, The-Rehabinator wrote:
3rd repaint the ceiling with some Kilz primer and repaint. If you just can't get the moisture out, there are going to be other problems in this bathroom with more time.
I
This is a great thread with great advice from "true tradesmen" -- always refreshing! Just wanted to add my two cents worth, KILTZ or the boat products might be a solution. My past experience using KiLTZ as a primer has been exceptional results. It is not only a primer but a sealant. I think it may be oil based, but it works well. Laxtex paints and primers do not offer the same effective coverage for problems as oil-based products. In my opinion Latex is simpler to use and cleanup, but oil is more effective for certain paint jobs.
Good luck on your projects.